As the proverb goes "music is the food of love" – and that’s certainly the case at Sa Pa’s love market in northern Lao Cai Province where negotiations over colourful merchandise are often serenaded by the delicate song of the Mong women and the bamboo flutes played by men.

Centre of attention: At the Sa Pa market the melody from the bamboo flute played by a Mong Villager delights onlookers.

"The market has closed but my love hasn’t faded,

I’m waiting and my lover’s still waiting,

We count each day to wait for the market,

We count each night wishing we can be together..."

It is the task of young men to venture out into the woods on Fansipan Mountain and select the best bamboo stems which the women help polish and steam. Once the flutes have turned yellow, they are soft enough to carve in the holes – any number from one to seven.

Maybe it’s the quality of the bamboo growing in the clean mountain air, or maybe it’s the skill of the musicians passed down from generations that makes these little instruments resound with such bright and colourful tones

It’s a quality that has wooed and won the heart of foreigners travelling to the country; the instrument a must-buy souvenir for tourists in the area.

At the night markets there are always some Mong couples working together to sell flutes. The husband will play whilst the wife invites people to browse their goods, a good flute usually going for around US.

Most Mong couples can speak English, not fluently but good enough for the needs of their trade – and also to give a tip on playing the instrument. Some sellers are such talented teachers that during the short bargaining process the buyer not only walks away with a new flute but also a tune to play on it. This added touch is one reason why visitors prefer buying the instrument from the street rather than souvenir shops in the town.

May Nhung, a local flute seller says that "Even though many tourists don’t know how to play the flute, they are still very interested in buying them".

The unique quality of the flutes makes them a much sought after gift for local and foreign travellers in the town to take home to their family and friends.

"I always buy a flute to take home with me, and this is the third time I’ve been to Sa Pa," one foreign traveller enthuses.

Sa Pa treasure

Many visitors have already discovered the magic of Sa Pa, the area attracted 170,844 tourists last year according to figures from the Sa Pa District Trade - Tourism Office, while 2007 has seen a total of 220,337 so far.

It’s easy to see why. After just one night on the train from Hanoi to Lao Cai and a VND40,000 xe om (motorbike taxi) from the station, the beauty of Sa Pa’s rolling mountain sides and emerald rice terraces is at your feet.

At around 1,600m above sea-level, the often-mist-shrouded town is as cool in summer as low-lying lands are in autumn. Even on hot days you have to wear warm clothes in the morning and use blankets when darkness falls. Sa Pa in the height of summer can encompass all seasons: spring in the morning, summer at noon, autumn in the afternoon and winter at night.

The first thing you may notice on approaching the resort town is the tall houses reminiscent of French colonial days, dating back 100 years. Not far from here stands Ham Rong hill, where colourful flowers deck its slopes and grottoes.

The main street runs along the foot of the hill, where local Mong and Dao ethnic groups man their stalls dressed in their resplendent traditional clothes.

From this popular base, visitors can explore the multitude of sights around the town including Thac Bac (Silver Waterfalls) and Cau May (Cloud Bridge). It’s also an excellent starting point for more intrepid tourists attempting to climb Vietnam’s tallest mountain, Fansipan. On clear days, Fansipan’s 3,143m peak can be seen from the town.

Another place of interest, attracting not only visitors but also researchers, is a group of about 200 stones decked with ancient drawings and scripts, all scattered across an area of about 8sq.km. The spot is currently under consideration as a UNESCO’s world cultural heritage site.

Visitors can also discover the traditional way of life of the area’s copious ethnic groups, as regular guided treks leave from the town everyday.

And of course, there’s the local market, open every week from Saturday night to early Sunday, where many young people meet to talk, sing, dance - and fall in love.

(Source: Viet Nam News)